The vastness of the African bush and plains are rapidly disappearing. Engulfed in a tsunami of housing, over population and unemployment.
During our Road Trip Namibia Safari, we followed the road over barren hard gravel from the west coast into the Namib Desert. In the distance a thin line of dusty green followed the Kuiseb(?) River. Finally we arrived at Ouma Anna's place. Some of her children's children's children, guided us to there. The TOPNAARS. A small ethnic group who finds it hard to survive. Squashed between the sanddunes, the Namib Desert and the Atlantic Ocean, they are limited to the Kuiseb River. Which provides water - and food for the animals. Since grazing is limited to the banks of the Kuiseb River, the goat herds are also small. The women collect /xnaras. It is a prolific growing desert creeper. /Xnaras are bitter as hell. The seeds of the /xnara are removed and boiled. This is then sold to a local factory which produces oil and fat from it, to make cleaning products. This little income is enough to buy the neccessary household items. Apparently there is no shortage of the /xnara. Mostly men go to the nearby town of Walvis Bay to work. Kids go to the local primary school. Traditional dances don't exist anymore said the grandma's. But the younger generation eagerly told about the lekker Nama-stap they do when the occasion arises. Their spoken language is Nama and Afrikaans the communication tool. TSWANA and TOPNAARS have a lot in common with the NAMA and outstanding patchwork dress.
Next to a dusty dirt road, some HERERO women swayingly danced for attention. We stopped to visit with them. HERERO's are cattle farmers and live in the west and east of Namibia. They are particular that their children should be schooled. HERERO's always go well dressed. The traditional dress of the women has 8 undercoats. Sometimes these serves also as blankets for others. The new generation wear western dress. In the bussiness community of the country, HERERO representation is prominent.
A DAMARA is born with a plier in hand - the saying goes. DAMARA's traditionally live in the hard rocky places of the west. They are hard working people. Much of the fences in the country were done by DAMARA. Men mine the semi-precious stones NAMIBIA is known for with hand, hammer, pick and shovel. Women are excellent housekeepers. When shelter is needed, a hut, covered with cattle dung, is erected. When it rains (which does not happen often), the hut must be re-plastered.
In the northwest groups mingle. HIMBA villages spread over the hills. OVAHIMBA are also cattle and goat farmers. Traditionally dressed HIMBA women and men scatter difference between the western clad people of Namibia. Also the HIMBA has adapted. Nowadays they wear rubber armbands instead of the traditional copper. Women spent a lot of time to keep their look. If a HIMBA marries outside of the ethnic group, such a person is not welcomed back as a HIMBA. Such persons adapt the normal western dress. I have lived more than 50years in Namibia and have never observed a smiling HIMBA.
What a delight the BUSHMeN were. The smiling people. Truly people of the land. Their spontaneous interaction with nature are enticing and their survival knowledge amazing. Sadly their land are also pirated by landgrabers for own resettlement with cattle. Thereby destroying nature and with it the game. When I offered our guide to share our lunch, he asked for only water. Their water installation was broken for some time already and water had to be carried from far. This way he could tank up and save the water at home for his family.
WHITES are a small minority ethnic group divided in 3 cultural groups : German, Afrikaans and English. My kids are 4th generation Namibian. Whites are known for creating employment. A man must make a plan - is applicable to this group. Producing enough, for tomorrow also - is the motto.
OVAMBO'S in the north is by far the majority ethnic group. Because of this Namibia is effectively a one-party-state, democraticly elected. Ovambo's are employed and resettled in every noock and corner of Namibia. Half of all money earned are send 'home'. And half of the millionaires in Namibia are OVAMBO.
KAVANGO's in the north, are fairly populated. Finding a stretch along the road where there is no hut in sight, is very difficult. The north has a larger rainfall and therefore bush and big trees grow prolific. Kiaat wood is used extensively in furniture. However, deforestation is clearly visible. Kavango's are known for their pottery. Fishing with traps are commonly done along the OKAVANGO river and its contributories.
CAPRIVIANS are cattle farmers. And like the OVAMBO AND KAVANGO, plant fields of mahango. They have a fair amount of elephant visits to their crops. Men mostly go to work at other places in the country.
CAPRIVIANS, OVAMBO's and KAVANGO's wear normal western dress.
In the clayhuts and tin shacks you'll commonly find regular, western furniture and conveniences. A tv-dish on the roof and a 4x4 by the door. Every settlement has a water point and electricity is commonly found everywhere. Definately reception for the cellphones. 95% of township-shops are shebeens (bars). Alchol and its related problems are a concern in Namibia. Tuberculoses occurs often. In the north malaria can spread havock. There is no underfed Namibian to be seen. On the contrary - overweight is applicable to probably 50%. Education is provided at all levels. (In the middle of no-where. A school. A township - with electricity and water.)
Transport is on foot, with donkeycar, with taxi or mini bus. Or a city chaos with a web of cars.
The capital, Windhoek, is a regular metropolitan city. As is every town.
Loitering, drinking, stealing, and crime, are common activities.
